6 (1 to 1 1/2-inch thick) salmon steaks with skin
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided use
salt and pepper

If you are using charcoal, build a fire about 45 minutes before you plan to start cooking. If you're using a gas grill, turn it on about 10 minutes ahead of cooking.

Toss salmon steaks in half the olive oil. When the coals have completely ignited, spread them over a large enough area for the 6 steaks. Wait about 10 minutes so the coals end up coated with a fine layer of ash. Brush the grill with the remaining oil and set it about 6-inches from the coals. Give it about 5 minutes to heat up.

Season the salmon steaks with salt and pepper and place them on the grill. For 1-inch steaks, grill for 3 to 4 minutes on each side. If you're unsure whether the steaks are done, cut into one with a sharp paring knife. Serve immediately on hot plates. Makes 6 servings.

3 Tbsp. red or white wine vinegar
1/4 tsp. salt
1/3 c. olive oil
1/8 tsp. freshly ground pepper
2 to 3 Tbsp. chopped fresh basil
1 Tbsp. minced shallots
2 Tbsp. capers
1 c. diced ripe tomato

Mix the vinegar with the salt. Whisk in the olive oil. Add the pepper, basil, shallots, capers and tomato. Spoon over freshly grilled, hot salmon steaks or fillets.

3 Tbsp. each: finely chopped fresh parsley, cilantro and basil
1 1/2 tsp. chili powder
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
3/4 tsp. coarsely ground pepper
6 Tbsp. olive oil
1 1/2 tsp. soy sauce

Combine the parsley, cilantro and basil. Add the remaining ingredients. Mix thoroughly to make a paste. Substitute paste for seasonings in main recipe. Spread the paste evenly over the flesh of salmon steaks or fillets before grilling.

Mustard-Flavored Salmon: Mix 2 tablespoons each mustard and sugar and 2 teaspoons water to make a thick paste. Spread the paste over the flesh side of fillets or steaks.